Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
